Most of the effective products used today to fade brown spots affect the enzymes which act on tyrosine, a building block of protein, which contributes to the skin pigment melanin. Men and women in ancient cultures used plants and mineral compositions to lighten the skin. Some of those materials have been recently found to contain natural enzyme and hormone inhibitors, antioxidants and sunscreens. The more effective skin whiteners used in past often were often harmful. In the Victorian era, for example, arsenic was the rage to whiten skin. It did the job but sometimes killed the user.
Mercury In Skin Whiteners
Mercury had been widely used in skin whiteners. It was banned in 1973 by the US Federal Food and Drug Administration in face masks, bleaches and freckle creams after it was found that its use over a long period of time caused the metal to buildup in the body with potentially devastating side-effects. Mercury in skin whiteners, however, is still a problem today. The FDA has an alert out to try and stop cosmetics containing it from entering the country. Last year, analysis performed by FDA’s Color Technology Branch found a skin whitener, Manning Beauty Cream, from the Dominican Republic to contain approximately 8% mercury. In addition, the product was labeled to contain calomel, a form of mercury. Additional whitening creams from other firms importing to the US have also been found to contain mercury compounds.
Hydroquinone In Brown Mark Removers
Hydroquinone, as compared to mercury and arsenic, is a newer member of the spot removal squad. The ability of hydroquinone to bleach skin was discovered accidentally during World War II, when African-American workers in rubber manufacturing factories where hydroquinone was used complained of discolored areas on their hands and forearms. Hydroquinone, when applied topically, was then found to inhibit the action of an enzyme tyrosinase involved in melanin production..
FDA Changes its Mind
In 1982, the FDA ruled over- the- counter skin bleaching drug products containing 1.5 to 2 percent hydroquinone be generally recognized as safe and effective (GRASE) based on the recommendation of experts outside the FDA who reviewed available data concerning hydroquinone. In 2006, after considering new data, the FDA canceled the 1982 rule because evidence indicated hydroquinone may act as a cancer-causing agent in rodents after oral administration. Hydroquinone was linked to ochronosis, a condition in humans in which the skin permanently darkens. The FDA recommended additional studies be conducted by the National Toxicology Program (NTP) and/or industry to determine if there is a risk to humans from the use of hydroquinone in over-the-counter skin bleaching products. Hydroquinone has already been banned by the Europeans in skin whitening products but is allowed in nail products . Canada does allow hydroquinone to be applied to the skin
So what can be used to lighten those brown spots ?
Natural Skin Whiteners
The emphasis is now on botanicals. Among the plant tyrosinase inhibitors are:
- arbutin: extract from the leaves of the heath family which includes cranberries, blueberries, bearberries, and most pear plants. It is a relative of hydroquinone
- glabridin: extract from licorice. Scientists in the US and Japan are studying it to inhibit cancer as well as lightening skin.
- mulberry: extracts from leaves of various species of morus. Yields a purplish black dye.
- soy: extracted from the bean, the compound reportedly moderately lightens sun-induced brown spots on the skin.
- matricaria extract of the flower head of Matricaria chamomilla: also called wild chamomile, it has long been used as a soothing medication for skin inflammations .
- Kojic acid was discovered in Japan in 1900, as a by-product in the production of koji, the malted rice used in the making of the Japanese rice wine, sake. Although it was developed as a skin lightener in Japan in 1989, it did not receive much attention until 4% hydroquinone was found to have ill effects on darker skin types producing more pigment instead of lightening it. Kojic acid was reported effective at inhibiting melanin production in a 2001 article in the Archives of Pharmacological Research.
Partnership Created Between Rice and Skin Peelers
A combination of kojic acid and with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) may be effective in getting rid of those brown spots. AHA is widely used in exfoliating anti-aging creams. Victor Beraja, MD, co-founder of BMI Research Laboratories and Medical Director of The Laser Surgery Center of Coral Gables, Miami, Fl., explains: The AHAs dissolve superficial skin layers allowing better penetration and increasing the effects of the kojic acid . He says in approximately four to six weeks after treatment with the kojic acid, patients have a noticeable improvement in skin texture, appearance and color and maximum improvement will be noticed in three to six months of continuous use.
Kojic is not without its critics. The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (ESCCP) found that kojic produced thyroid tumors and other adverse effects in animals and that more than 1 percent of kojic acid was not safe in cosmetics. The ESCCP also found the compound to causes skin sensitization. Japanese researchers at the Japanese National Institutes of Health also found kojic may be carcinogenic.
Nivitol The New Skin Whitener
Botanical extracts supplier Unigen of Washington announced in 2010 it has a new skin whitener, Nivitol, derived from the plant Dianella ensifolia. The company, claims the product is significantly more effective as a tyrosinase inhibitor than other skin whitener ingredients on the market.
Ruth Winter - Ruth Winter, MS, The author of 37 popular health books, was past president of The American Society of Journalists and Authors and winner ...
